Recently my Pearl Dolce's been irritating me with the teflon on the double G keys. My flute has a split E mech. so the G key section splits in half to two keys-- the G and G# of the double G keys. The piece of teflon is on the G# of the dbl. G key and there isn't any lost motion between the adjustment screw and the G# of dbl. G but sometimes it just makes a clanky noise. It's not a major issue of any sort (aside from a minor annoyance) and I figured that maybe some folks here would have some sort of suggested remedy to fix this issue. I think that cork and ultrasuede would compress due to use and there's nothing else that comes to mind for a silencer on that key. Micron, Patrick, anyone? Here's a picture that may help: http://www.foreverwoodwinds.com/pearlteflon.JPG .Thanks!
Just replace it with a paper substitute and re-regulate. They are a little thick and the adj. screw head is pointed and eventually digs into it. Thinner is better in this case, the type of material doesn't matter. Standard copy paper will work nicely .003" thick.
Check to make sure the hinge tube is not worn. I've seen a few over time that need a little swedging. That click can also come from the tube against the hinge tube. A consequence of Split E mechanisms over time.
If your regulation is stable and it is just the click then swap the silencer out. If it is a click and the regulation is funky, check the hinge tube fit.
Thanks, Joe! I fully disassembled the flute about a month or two ago and cleaned and oiled the hinge tubings and screws and didn't notice any sort of fitting problems. I'll try the paper thing later and cross my fingers that that'll resolve the clicking. Will keep you posted, thanks!
First, be aware that Teflon in linkages can be very noisy. I don't regard it as an adequate silencing material at all. Its very low friction is what can make it useful in mechanisms, but that is irrelevant in this application.
Paper is OK. But I prefer a far tougher material under regulating screws. It is the "microfiber" synthetic leather used on a top model of sax pad from Music Center in Italy.
I agree with Joe that the noise could be coming from a sloppy pivot tube. It only needs a tiny bit of play, especially if there is not much lubrication, or the oil is of low viscosity. This play may well go unnoticed unless you have a sharp eye for it.
However I disagree with Joe about how that sloppiness got there. I find that it is pretty well standard on the cheaper Pearl models when new, along with sloppiness in the hinge tubes of the right hand stack keys. I also definitely do not see it as a RESULT of the split E mechanism, unless the flute has had a HUGE amount of use - many years.
It sure can play havoc with the reliability of adjustments in this area. This is one respect in which I consider student Yamahas to be better made.
Unfortunately I haven't gotten to messing with the Pearl yet today however would like to touch up on a few things. I linked a friend to this post to see their response and they, a pro. flutist, said that the Pearl Dolce model is comparable to Miyazawa's 201/202, Muramatsu EX, Yamaha 574, and etc. The fact that you (micron) compared the Dolce line to student model (or, sorry, "cheaper Pearl models") is kind of a killer as there's a HUGE price difference between say a Dolce and a 501/505. As for the mechanism of the G keys, there's VERY VERY SLIGHT lateral play (minute, really) however I don't feel it to be significant and I fully cleaned and oiled all of the screws a month or so ago and the flute's usually just sitting in the case. This flute was a demo prior to being in my possession and I highly doubt it got much use during being demoed due to the flute's overall condition (which is apt to showing signs of use). I have a few older white leather pads around and will just try a piece of that as it's on the thin side and if it's too thick, I'll do the paper method.
I had no intention of comparing different Pearl mkodels, nor of making statements about their higher models. I am sorry if the context of my post suggested otherwise.
I was speaking only of the "cheaper" models, shich I have sen a lot of. I cannot comment much on higher models becasue I have seen very few of them. However seeing you mention it, I DO recall seeing what I regard as student model faults on higher models, in the form of G# spring that is sufficiently short for its diameter, that the key had, to me, a rather sluggish feel in its action.
BTW, I think that the pivot tube (lateral) sloppiness I spoke of only needs to be around 0.005 mm (0.0002") to be significant.
searching...
