Is it possible to remove rods and screws with heavy rusts?
I bought this student Yamaha flute on eBay; there is no corrosion and finish is great. But it looks like somebody put it back in its case without wiping. Pads are molded and it is impossible to remove most of the rods and screws. One of the screws is shot and will need to be mechanically removed. Of course, seller who claims being a flute repaired failed to mention that and the above As it is, I have a non repairable piece of junk.
If the answer to my question is yes, what is the miracle product and/or tools I need? WD40 wont work.
If you are trying to do it yourself you need actual penetrating oil.
Liquid Wrench makes a product called "penetrating oil" there are two versions. A foaming version and a non foaming version. Get the non-foaming version.
This stuff sprays all over so cover everything nearby well.
Then take a screw driver that fits the head of the screw, place in it's proper position and whack it with a hammer. spray and whack, spary and whack.
If the screw head is already damaged don't bother with the penetrating oil. You will need to drill it out. If you have never done this before don't try this on your flute - you will certainly fail and make things worse. You probably place it in a non repairable condition. If you HAVE done this before then get a pin vise one size smaller than the thread size of the screw (not the head size of the screw the thread size) If you do not know the thread size then STOP!!!!! Again, you will cause more damage and make things worse for the professional or again place it in a condition of not being able to repair it at all. If you have done this before and do know the thread size then smooth out the top of the screw, center punch it and drill out the center with your pin vise. Then take a very small punch and cave in the sides of the remaining screw.
Get your rethreaders out and clean and rethread the hole (do not use taps only rethreaders) taps will cause more damamge, re threaders will not. After everything is cleaned and back to proper shape take your new screw that you bought and install the new screw.
Or, take your flute, or mail your flute to the nearest professional flute repair person.
File a claim and get your money back. The item wasn't as described. If you paid with paypal, you can open a claim. Did you try resolving this with the seller directly? It's ridiculous and you shouldn't pay for something that wasn't accurately described. I don't know how much you paid, but it's probably not worth it to try to fix it up yourself.
If you need a good used student flute in excellent playing condition, let me know. There's others here that sell flutes as well.
Thank you for your reply. From your description I have hope that the flute is salvagable, but I might not do it myself. I will have to mail it to a professionnal with all the tools and knowledge. Can you do that? If yes, please PM me.
Alieannie,
SNAD has been filed. Seller did agree to refund if I mail back the flute, but this is a transborder transaction (i am in Canada) so I would end up loosing either way (shipping is expensive, taxes have been paid...). I am learning all aspects of flute repair so this is just an other case for me.
It is very frustrating when you trust an eBay seller (this one sells lots of flutes) who claims to be a professionnal technician, then describes wrongly the instrument. Even an newbie technician can detect rust at first sight. The left hand stack's rod on this flute is so frozen that all the keys don't move independently. So pins will need to be removed too.
There are several other very successful approaches other than those already mentioned, before resorting to destructive means.
But I'd say definitely do not attempt this sort of thing yourself though.
Very few people would even have a suitable screw driver (length for good aligment, handle diameter for torque, precisely correct blade width and thickness, very sharp edges on the end of the blade, and top quality steel). You just don't buy these in hardware stores.
And with an inappropriate screw driver, success is unlikely, and it is an almost certainty thkat you will wreck the head of the screw sufficiently that it will be far more difficult to remove.
But all this does not make the flute a write-off. This, and making new pivots if necessary, is routine work for any good, experienced technician.
This is not as uncommon repair as one would think in the context of a complete repad. We repair techs have the correct tools and resources for doing this type of work. I, like Micron, agree that this flute is probably not a loss.
I do also agree that the flute was misrepresented from the seller and I would first pursue that recourse.
If that fails, the flute can be restored, but there will be substantial additional cost from your description.
I wouldn't, personally, recommend wacking a screwdriver anywhere near flute posts to try getting a screw out... Penetrating oil (Ferree's sells it) put near the threaded end of the screw would sound like the best plan (by the king post), try letting it sit a little while and then try heating it and see if that helps loosen it up. Micron was correct in regards to proper screwdriver widths as if you're trying to get out a screw with a screwdriver that's inadequate you'll end up messing up the threading which can lead to stripped screws, etc. Pressure is also very important when getting stuck screws out. If you're not putting enough pressure on the screwdriver inside the screw's slotted head then you're going to risk stripping it also.
I had a flute in January that had this same problem (quite unfortunately), I put penetrating oil on it, heated it, tried unscrewing it, let it sit, and the same thing over again and again for about a week with no such luck. I brought this particular flute to the local shop and asked them to get the screws out asap and they said the following "Well, we'll put oil on the screws and let the flute sit but they have to work themselves out...". Yep, exactly... DURR! Shortly after, all of the key solder areas started breaking at the solder joints (worst flute soldering EVER!) but I sold the flute as-is and still made about $150. Go figure!
I'd send the flute back snail mail... I have a friend in Canada that may be able to help depending on your location... Send me a private message if you'd like!
"Micron was correct in regards to proper screwdriver widths as if you're trying to get out a screw with a screwdriver that's inadequate you'll end up messing up the threading which can lead to stripped screws, etc. Pressure is also very important when getting stuck screws out. If you're not putting enough pressure on the screwdriver inside the screw's slotted head then you're going to risk stripping it also. "
Well not really. The word "strip" is used for damage to the threads themselves. It is exceedingly difficult (probably impossible) to strip a screw or mess up the threading while taking a screw out. The issue is one of damaging the slotted head of the screw. Any damage here makes the screw a lot more difficult to remove. Damage here is almost always done by an unsuitable screw driver, in the hands of a person who does not know that a special screw driver is required.
But agreed, sometimes a lot of pressure is needed on the end of the screw driver in order not to damage the slotted part of the screw.
searching...
As it is, I have a non repairable piece of junk. 
