"I believe the Forza headjoint IS made for Pearls professional level flutes."
OK here's a case where I can wear my Pearl Hat..
The Forza headjoint is made in Taiwan and was made for the Intermediate Dolce/Elegante series. It is also available to limited dealers on the Quantz series in the USA.
The Forza is often confused with the Forte Headjoint. The Forte is one of our more popular pro headjoints and made in the Japan Pro Flute workshop. The Forza is a completely different cut and taper and similar in basic design to a Sheridan headjoint. As a result it is very popular among those seeking a better headjoint before getting into a full blown pro model. It's a Pro Design but made in our Taiwan factory. Each one is hand finished by one of the craftsmen there.
An upgrade to the F665 would be a Dolce or Elegante, The mechanism is slightly different and of better quality (heavier gauge more, finely sculpted keywork placement of adjusting screws, clutch style, etc...) given the same basic Pearl pinless design. The headjoint on that model is the same so you would be upgrading the body and mechanism, accessories, etc..
You could do another custom step up above that. I have paired a few pro headjoints on Dolces / Elegantes for various people. Still a good cost saving over even an entry level Japan made flute and a lot more performance. It's not a regular offering, you have to ask.
Above that, the world of Pro flutes is your oyster. We too off course make quite a few of pro flutes and each can be pretty custom or basic. You can get just about anything you want at that level for a price...
Wood headjoints, Have played a bunch, lots of different ones out there. Again it's the same rat race to find the one you like..
I don't think it's "nonsense" at all to ask a poster to disclose pertinent information to all other posters -- long-time members as well as new members. To think it's "nonsense" is the height of arrogance.
SD203, it doesn't really matter how you feel or react personally. it is simply common sense that posters giving advice about purchases and sales also disclose their affiliations. You might not agree, but that's okay.
And I'm perfectly chilled out -- thanks for your concern!
You're new. That's fine. But you'll soon realize that nobody OWNS a thread here. You're barking up the wrong tree if you think you can bully other posters into NOT posting in a certain place. We post what we think when we think it.
And you'll also soon learn that creating multiple threads asking about new flutes and new headjoints and "oh, what should I buy?"-type questions will get you pretty much nowhere. The most experienced posters will respond that you can't expect reliable responses from anonymous people on any given day. The following is the only good advice you can hope for:
YOUR experiences with as many flutes, headjoints, riser materials, and so on will be the only reliable (and thus best) way to decide what your next flute should be.
Continuing to ask people what you should buy, especially now that forum membership and posting is at a low point (with fewer experienced people posting these days compared to a few years ago), will just waste your time and possibly lead you to make a decision that's not right FOR YOU.
And, once again: Do a search of the forum threads. Your questions have repeatedly been asked over the years, with dozens and dozens of threads having different responses, contradictory responses, responses from 13-year-olds who have been playing for one year, and -- yes -- even useless and untrustworthy information.
We have seen "new" people like you come and go from this forum over the years. Bullies who attack others don't last long after the initial thrill of imagined power wears off.
And I'll continue posting what I want -- where and when I want. No thread belongs to anyone here.
If you get two or three recommendations or responses about flutes, headjoints, and materials from anonymous individuals on the Internet, will that seriously help you determine your needs? That's just so juvenile. But go for it!
Not trying to be a troll here, just want to know some things and am posing some questions ....
Why would any tech not like to work on Pearls? The conventional flute knock pins are a pain to remove and install and that task does pose a risk if the tool you use for the purpose slips. (Yes I know, flute techs usually use a specialized combination die-punch-vice to minimize this risk, but "some" techs still use a free-handed punch and hammer approach, with the key not locked down in a vice of any kind.) Pearl stack keys come apart with a single tiny allen wrench. No risky procedures or expensive tooling involved.
In the same vein ... and like the above, this is not a trollistic rhetorical question ... I'd like to know if the traditional knock-pin approach actually has any advantages over pinless, and what they are. Offhand, I can still think of a few additional advantages of the pinless approach.
"Ladies you're both beautiful so shut the hell up"
Just let everyone do their own thing kay . Jeeze people this guys asking for help and you all are hissing like a bunch of cats. Btw I tried a pearl, loved it, keywork a little clinky but gorgeous sound.
I'd like to know if the traditional knock-pin approach actually has any advantages over pinless, and what they are. Offhand, I can still think of a few additional advantages of the pinless approach.
There are no mechanical advantages to the traditional pinned mechanism I can think of. Pinned and pinless are just different. If there is any advantage, you would need to specify the particular pinless design. Some are more complicated to put back together compared to a pinned mechanism. Others are just as easy.
It would be a lot easier to identify the disadvantages of a pinned mechanism.
Joe, thank you for your pertinent reply. I may be wrong but my impression was that Pearl is still currently the only flutemaker offering the pinless design from its entry-level models on up. I have no special beefs against the conventional pinned design but I do think the pinless approach is more robust (at least in theory), less exposed to wear or binding. I've taken a couple of Pearls apart completely and they went back together fairly easily with no signs of user error.
Another question: Isn't a headjoint considered hand-cut if the craftsman uses a scraper to under- and over-cut the embouchure hole? Or is there something more involved with the use of the words "hand-crafted" or "hand-cut"?
Along the lines of the last postr...Joe - what exactly HAS been done to Hand Finish the Forza headjoint ?
The flute is great by the way....the Headjoint works very well for me.
I am very impressed with the overall quality of the 665
For me - it turned out to be a happy medium - so to speak....just as good as the Di Zhao 700 as far as I'm concerned.
Do you happen to know what differences there are between the two ? I am referring to the manner in which each is made. Is the forza embouchure hole machine cut - and THEN finished by hand - I was under the assumption the Di Zhao embouchure hole was completely cut / shaped by hand
Obviously....I am in error - can you please explain what goes on when a technician sits down and goes to work on shaping the embouchure hole.