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Buying an Oboe 
 

Buying an Oboe

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Buying an Oboe    20:51 on Friday, June 20, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Account Closed
(45 points)

I am trying to purchase a student oboe. I recently had to turn in the school oboe I was borrowing and it got replaced with a wooden King stausser oboe. this instrument looks like it has been in the back of a closet somewhere for a long time. So if you know of a good brand of student oboe please let me know

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Re: Buying an Oboe    22:43 on Friday, June 20, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Canadian
(903 points)

Yamaha is a fantastic beginner brand oboe. It has the left F key, and others needed for a beginner.

I belive the begginer oboes are the YOB 241 and YOB 441.

The 241 is plastic and the 441 is wooden. Please note, the 241 doesn't have low Bb key.

But heck, if your going to all the effort to buy an oboe get an F. Loree.

They range from $2,000 - $7,000 for used. $7,000 for a new one I think.



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Re: Buying an Oboe    03:08 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Kyleian
(45 points)

I know this is a really old topic by now... but anyways...

I'm looking into getting a new oboe myself, and my teacher recommended a Selmer "Bundy," or 1492. The 1492 FB has the left-hand F and a Bb key, the 1492B doesn't have either.

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Re: Buying an Oboe    21:24 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

anr
(31 points)

I had a selmer, though I don't know whether or not it was one of those models (if it was, it was the B). It was awful. I would absolutely NOT recommend it. I've also tried a selmer in a music store, and it was just as bad as mine. They use bladder pads instead of cork for a lot of the secondary keys, which really seems to hurt the response.

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Re: Buying an Oboe    23:12 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

StephenK
(395 points)

It depends on what your price range is really.

If you are looking for something under $1000 your best bet is a used Selmer oboe from an oboe specialist shop, should be around $500. Where you get it is important as you want it to be in playable condition. There are a number of shops you can search out online.

Avoid Yamaha 211s, they have ill designed bores, the Yamaha 241 is supposed to have fixed that, but it's pricier.

In the $2500 range you have a lot of options.

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Re: Buying an Oboe    18:40 on Thursday, July 17, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

tessellation
(42 points)

I've had the Fox 330 recommended to me by a couple of specialty shops. I picked up a Jupiter used not too long ago. It's a bit older, but what I paid plus the small repair bill to clean things up a bit was quite a savings compared to a new one. It depends on what you want to spend. =)

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Re: Buying an Oboe    19:01 on Thursday, July 17, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Canadian
(903 points)

Maybe a used YOB241 would be best?

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Re: Buying an Oboe    01:23 on Thursday, August 14, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

oboeteacher
(25 points)

DON"T BUY A SELMER!!!!!!!

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Re: Buying an Oboe    10:55 on Thursday, August 14, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Oboe
(27 points)

"Don't buy a Selmer!!!"

This isn't true in all cases. For an advanced oboe, this may be true - the 104B is not as great as I had hoped years ago after playing the student model 1492).

The Selmer 1492 student model is actually a very good beginner's instrument and has one of the better tones I have heard on a beginner (no Bb or Left F keys) oboe.

If you are looking for simple, but good, the Selmer 1492 is a good way to go.

If there is one oboe brand I would be sure to say "don't buy a ___" of, it would have to be Linton as I have never heard anything but complaints about them, and I have not had any luck with them either.

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Re: Buying an Oboe    05:08 on Friday, August 22, 2008 Vote for this post Vote against this post 0 votes

Kyleian
(45 points)

yeah... I've been playing on a Linton for the past 10 months, and then at camp 2 months ago I played on a Loree and a Yamaha and almost died because of how easy it was.
Lintons are usually slower to respond, you have to blow harder, dynamics are evilly hard... the list goes on.


   

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